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» Finger strength is one of the most important aspects in climbing, and one of the most discussed topics with no lack of contradictory advice and opinions. » In this episode we'll outline an approach to finger strength—mainly through no-hangs, which for me has unlocked one-arm hangs on 12mm edges and hard sends up to 8C difficulty. » To receive a brief summary of all the key insights with accompanying images and more bonus material for this and future episodes sign up for: ⭕️ Episode Essentials: www.nilsasken.com/mail » Regardless, I hope this episode can be of some value to you 🙏 – SPONSOR – ➡️ 30 Day Free Trial — Kjugekull Premium Guidebook: 27crags.com/teams/kjugebloc?referral=5fea8b20f311c432 – TIME-STAMPS – (00:00) – Intro (01:08) – Overview (02:03) – Terminology (02:58) – The Yearly Approach (06:26) – Hangs vs Lifts (09:36) – Max No-hang Training (09:57) – No-Hang Form (14:04) – Type of Lifting Device (14:48) – Lifts vs Holds (16:45) – Reps/Sets (17:45) – Session per Week (19:22) – Grip Positions (22:52) – Lazy Pinky (26:31) – Optimization – PODCAST INFO – All episodes: podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/nilsasken Instagram: instagram.com/carl.nilsask/ Website: nilsasken.com/
